Doces divinos
Nestes dias de Papa, fizemos uma investida na doceria conventual, que tira do sério qualquer cristãoLuciana Fróeslua@oglobo.com.brARTE CONVENTUAL. Confeitaria no Complexo do Alemão é a sensação do momentoAdegão Português. Dez versões em cartaz há quase 50 anosALDA MARIA. Receitas conventuais vieram da avó, imigrante portuguesa de PelotasDivulgaçãoBerg SilvaLAURA MARQUESRECEITAS SAGRADASPecado não é. Digamos que seja uma gula do bem, daquelas de que estamos perdoados por cair em tentação. Culpa, só diante da balança (ó, céus). Como resistir a esses doces de convento, herança de nossos colonizadores, puxados no ovo e no açúcar, que ainda atendem por nomes abençoados como nata do céu, pastel de Santa Clara, barriguinha de freira ou bem-casado?Suas origens são manjadas, mas não custa recontar. Surgiram com os patrícios camponeses, que tinham como prática presentear religiosos com produtos de suas "quintas", coisas como galinhas e seus "ovos de ouro". Sobravam galinha e ovo, claro... A saída foi fazer bom uso das claras (engomar os hábitos religiosos) e das gemas (inventar doces divinos).No Adegão Português, há quase 50 anos o cardápio traz dez versões de conventuais. Só de pastel - que nada tem de pastel, mas, sim, de empadinha de massa folheada - são quatros: Santa Clara, de Belém, de Coimbra e de nata. E toucinho do céu, encharcada do Algarve, Dom Rodrigo, barriguinha de freira, ovos moles (de R$ 8 a R$ 15)...Na Confeitaria Colombo, desde sempre (e lá se vai mais de um século) os...
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