Mês de descobrimento
deise novakoskideisenova@globo.comDepois de tantos anos trabalhando com gastronomia, atendendo inúmeras pessoas diariamente, é natural que alguns episódios sejam apagados de minha memória. Outros, no entanto, ficarão para sempre.E uma dessas lembranças eternas vem de meados dos anos de 1990, quando começaram a chegar vinhos de países inusitados para nós, que, até então, recebíamos parcos rótulos franceses, chilenos, portugueses e, o pior, italianos.Australianos, libaneses e neozelandeses eram algumas das novidades, e, é claro, todos queriam colocá-los em suas cartas. Para abrir espaço na minha, tirei o capítulo Portugal. Em menos de 24 horas, recebi inúmeras reclamações de clientes, portugueses ou descendentes, que não admitiam tamanha "barbaridade". Aprendi, com a grita, que a comunidade é forte e, desde então, mantenho o capítulo em todas as cartas que faço, mesmo que o estilo e a culinária da casa nem passem perto de Portugal. A força portuguesa é tamanha no Brasil e, especialmente, no Rio que tais vinhos estão presentes nos catálogos de todas as importadoras.É comum, aliás, encontrar quem importe só vinhos da Terrinha. Como a Bacalhoa Vinhos de Portugal, a FTP Wines e a CCA - Celles Cordeiro. Alguns vão além e se especializam em certas regiões portuguesas, caso da Adega Alentejana.Engrossando a lista de superespecialistas, chega ao Rio a Cia. Reserva do Cais, com uma lista recheada de vinhos simpáticos, dos mais modestos, para o dia a dia, aos imponentes, de guarda.Os rótulos vêm de três regiões. A primeira é a Península de Setúbal, que, ao sul de Lisboa, é rodeada pelos rios Tejo e Sado e pelo Oceano Atlântico e tem verões quentes e secos e invernos amenos e chuvosos, o que propicia aos vinhos características marcantes: os brancos têm aromas florais, e os tintos, um delicado sabor de especiarias e frutos silvestres. A segunda é o Alentejo...
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